In this MasterClass episode, the hosts demonstrate how to create a realistic polished aluminum finish on an RC model airplane fuselage. This technique is often used on classic aircraft such as the Ryan PT-22. The process requires careful preparation, controlled layering, and the right tools. It is an excellent way to upgrade an ARF beyond its factory covering while using trusted tools like DU-BRO scissors and other hobby accessories.
Building the Foundation: Fiberglass and Easy Coat
The project begins by reinforcing the fuselage with 1-ounce fiberglass cloth and Easy Coat from Deluxe Materials. A foam brush is used to apply Easy Coat, allowing it to soak into the cloth evenly. Once saturated, the fuselage is left to dry overnight. A hairdryer can speed up the drying process, and sunlight helps the material cure even more.
After curing, the fiberglass is sanded to expose the woven fibers. It is important to let the material harden fully. Sanding too early can cause the surface to gum up and lose smoothness. This step creates a strong, level foundation for the reflective finish.
Filling, Priming, and Smoothing the Surface
Polished aluminum shows every flaw, so the next goal is to remove pinholes and surface defects. Two light coats of high-build automotive primer are applied. After the primer dries, the fuselage is sanded with 120-grit and then 220-grit sandpaper. Between each stage, it is wiped with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust and oils.
This process—prime, sand, clean, repeat—continues until the surface is completely smooth. A flawless base is critical because even tiny imperfections become noticeable under reflective vinyl.
Applying the Polished Aluminum Vinyl
The episode uses a high-gloss HTV RT adhesive vinyl for the metal finish. It provides a mirror-like shine but must be applied carefully:
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Heat above 150°F can dull the surface.
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Very little heat is used during application.
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A felt-tipped squeegee prevents scratching.
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¼-inch vinyl tape helps map out panel lines and overlap areas.
Joshua applies the vinyl by folding back part of the backing and squeegeeing from the center outward. Long, smooth passes help avoid bubbles. Extra vinyl is trimmed with DU-BRO scissors or a #11 blade.
Panel lines are created by pressing the squeegee along the tape indentations. After removing the protective film, a fine-tip Sharpie marks cutting lines for overlapped sections. A #11 blade scores the vinyl cleanly, and the excess is peeled away.
Finishing Touches: Cleaning, Fuel-Proofing, and Texture
Isopropyl alcohol removes any remaining Sharpie marks. Builders who plan to add decals or paint should use a self-etching primer or an adhesion promoter such as Plastic Magic. Glow and gas models benefit from a 2K clear coat, which fuel-proofs the vinyl and seals the seams.
The episode also shows how to add a brushed-metal effect using a Scotch-Brite pad. This creates subtle grain without heavy scratches.
While the polished aluminum adds some weight, it delivers a dramatic, scale-quality upgrade over factory coverings. The episode ends with a preview of the next enhancement: adding scale rivets for even more realism.
